Sunni Dawson

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Postcards from Penang

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Postcard 1: Opium and temples

Penang’s life pulsates in the grimy alleyways, crumbling pavement and frying stalls of sweet potato and fatty meats. In the historic centre 300 sculptured cast iron characters adorn laneways and streets making learning about Penang’s history, palatable, even for children. 


For example, Love Lane was named due to wealthy business men keeping their mistresses in this alley (I noted its substantial length).

One sculpture marks the spot where Jimmy Choo did his apprenticeship. 



Another indicating where poulters worked, called ‘Chicken Lane’.

 
A self tour reveals so much, but like an ant swarming for the local saccharine drinks, I sign up for a walking tour. My guide, a tall well groomed man with a passion for Penang and its past explains that only about 100 inhabitants were on the Island when the first white invaders moved in. The Portuguese in the 16th century made spice routes from Goa, the Dutch had a turn, then the British ‘founded’ the island in 1786, well, actually, the ruling Sultan of Kedah was forced to cede to the British.
 
Even juicier was role the British played in the Opium wars between China, Hong Kong, Penang and Singapore, where the British won the war and claimed Hong Kong.Opium wars existed also in the Chinese clans within Penang: the Cantonese and Fujian. Penang as a successful trade port attracted communities from across Europe, the Middle East and Asia. Although many of these cultural groups did not remain for long in Penang, the acknowledgement of their contribution lives on in the street names: Siam Road, Armenian Street, Burma Road, Gottlied Road and a Jewish Cemetery.

Fujian (left) and Cantonese (right) temples
Strolling in the centre of Georgetown reveals its continuing diversity in practices of worship: a Catholic church, Church of England, a Cantonese temple (marked by tall columns and plain lines), a Fujian temple (marked by very ornate colourful roofed carvings), a Hindu temple and a Mosque.
 
The oldest temple in Georgetown is the Goddess of Mercy Temple, built around 1800 by the Cantonese and Fujian communities. This temple is based on Taoism and Confucianism, but many Chinese from all faiths go there to pray to Kuan Yin for good health and luck. But its not just Kuan Yin’s temple. 80 gods hang out here.

Outside Kuan Yin’s temple

 

 
‘Its all about efficiency’, he says, ‘A person can go to this one temple and pray to all the gods and hopefully one of them will grant your wish. If your wish still isn’t granted, go to the Hindu temple. Maybe one of their gods will listen to you!’
 

Opposite Kuan Yin’s temple is a small yellowing steel cupboard containing a statue of Ganesh, (the Elephant Hindu God of Prosperity). He tells me that both Chinese and Hindu peoples have prayed at the foot of Ganesh today. 

 
‘How do you know that?’
 
‘There are both black and red incense sticks here. The black incense sticks are from the Hindus and the red are from the Chinese. Chinese peoples like Ganesh, he is the bringer of prosperity.’
 






Proud family histories are linked to Chinese temples. Generations of Cantonese and Fujians shaking their prayerful hands at their clan’s temple, and living on through lineages of canisters displaying their forefathers names, and reserving front row seats (if you have the money, you can purchase a canister decades before your death, thereby securing your place to keenly watch over your descendants: ensuring their prayer-making and giving answers as you so please).

Postcard 2: the Clan Jetties

Later on I visited the some of the remaining Clan Jetties off the historic centre. The three I saw before sunset couldn’t be more different. The first was a bustling and vibrant community focused on selling plastic wares to tourists.

The second clan seemed like a poor cousin to the first, dilapidated and rickety wooden palings leading to see through toilets and temples. The third presented itself in a well maintained, precise and pretty manner, red lanterns strung up meticulously between the houses.

 

The commonalities between the jetties lay only in the distinct low tide odour. It arrested my nostrils with the delicate scent of decaying fish mixed with days’ old excrement. 

Two more Penang postcards will follow this weekend!

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