Sunni Dawson

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Postcards from Penang 2

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Postcard 3: Penang Hill

 

In order to escape the parboiling of my already beetroot-esque skin, I jumped on an air-conditioned bus that took me on an hour long meander through Penang’s peak hour traffic. My destination: Penang Hill.
 

Penang Hill is perched about 833 metres above the historic centre. A railway was built in 1923 running almost completely vertically to the peak. I could take the funicular which reached the top within 15 minutes or I could climb the overgrown hill in about 3 hours in 90% humidity. Guess what I chose?

 
In typical solo female traveller fashion, I was asked by no less than 4 couples to take their photo on  the peak of Penang’s scintillating scape of hills, bays and bridges. I asked one couple if they could take my photo (the first of me in a while, so enjoy!).
 

I took a photo of one couple on a swing. Apparently I was so ‘nice’, that the woman ditched her man to have a photo with me on lovers bridge! 🙂 I didn’t get a photo on my camera with this lovely woman, but here is a selfie of me surrounded in locks of love!




















Both a Hindu temple and a Mosque provide places of prayer for locals with a fabulous view of the city on the ultimate tip of the hill. 

 

 






Postcard 4: Randomness
 
In my final Postcard from Penang, I wanted to share just a couple of random interesting things I found.
 
Chinese herbal tea houses are very popular in Penang. I stared into the refrigerated glass tea cabinet with the tempo of a dazed snail. I asked the server what he would recommend for an overheated foreigner.
 
‘Antelope tea for sure.’
 
‘Antelope tea? Does it have real Antelopes in it?’ My voice gave away my foolishness. 
 
He smiled a broad smile, and perched two middle fingers on his shortly cropped black hair, ‘Yes, real Antelope’. 
 
As horror flickered on my face, a girl seated piped up, ‘No, not real Antelope, just herbs. Its refreshing. It will cool you down.’
 

If you are not drinking herbal tea, (which was, by the way, quite refreshing), white coffee is the answer. White coffee is an obsession in Penang and uber cool cafes for young adults to sit around sending smart phone messages to each other.

 
I noticed local bus drivers looked happy and were super polite. I also observed behind each drivers seat an A2 size photo of the driver (usually smiling) that contains their full name for all passengers to see. I pondered the effect of a policy such as this in other cities.

 

Absolutely no Durian is allowed on buses. You shall not get on with your Durian. We can, and will take it off you.
 
 
And finally, a fabulously named product. Do you want to Kick-a-poo too?

 

Postcards from Penang

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Postcard 1: Opium and temples

Penang’s life pulsates in the grimy alleyways, crumbling pavement and frying stalls of sweet potato and fatty meats. In the historic centre 300 sculptured cast iron characters adorn laneways and streets making learning about Penang’s history, palatable, even for children. 


For example, Love Lane was named due to wealthy business men keeping their mistresses in this alley (I noted its substantial length).

One sculpture marks the spot where Jimmy Choo did his apprenticeship. 



Another indicating where poulters worked, called ‘Chicken Lane’.

 
A self tour reveals so much, but like an ant swarming for the local saccharine drinks, I sign up for a walking tour. My guide, a tall well groomed man with a passion for Penang and its past explains that only about 100 inhabitants were on the Island when the first white invaders moved in. The Portuguese in the 16th century made spice routes from Goa, the Dutch had a turn, then the British ‘founded’ the island in 1786, well, actually, the ruling Sultan of Kedah was forced to cede to the British.
 
Even juicier was role the British played in the Opium wars between China, Hong Kong, Penang and Singapore, where the British won the war and claimed Hong Kong.Opium wars existed also in the Chinese clans within Penang: the Cantonese and Fujian. Penang as a successful trade port attracted communities from across Europe, the Middle East and Asia. Although many of these cultural groups did not remain for long in Penang, the acknowledgement of their contribution lives on in the street names: Siam Road, Armenian Street, Burma Road, Gottlied Road and a Jewish Cemetery.

Fujian (left) and Cantonese (right) temples
Strolling in the centre of Georgetown reveals its continuing diversity in practices of worship: a Catholic church, Church of England, a Cantonese temple (marked by tall columns and plain lines), a Fujian temple (marked by very ornate colourful roofed carvings), a Hindu temple and a Mosque.
 
The oldest temple in Georgetown is the Goddess of Mercy Temple, built around 1800 by the Cantonese and Fujian communities. This temple is based on Taoism and Confucianism, but many Chinese from all faiths go there to pray to Kuan Yin for good health and luck. But its not just Kuan Yin’s temple. 80 gods hang out here.

Outside Kuan Yin’s temple

 

 
‘Its all about efficiency’, he says, ‘A person can go to this one temple and pray to all the gods and hopefully one of them will grant your wish. If your wish still isn’t granted, go to the Hindu temple. Maybe one of their gods will listen to you!’
 

Opposite Kuan Yin’s temple is a small yellowing steel cupboard containing a statue of Ganesh, (the Elephant Hindu God of Prosperity). He tells me that both Chinese and Hindu peoples have prayed at the foot of Ganesh today. 

 
‘How do you know that?’
 
‘There are both black and red incense sticks here. The black incense sticks are from the Hindus and the red are from the Chinese. Chinese peoples like Ganesh, he is the bringer of prosperity.’
 






Proud family histories are linked to Chinese temples. Generations of Cantonese and Fujians shaking their prayerful hands at their clan’s temple, and living on through lineages of canisters displaying their forefathers names, and reserving front row seats (if you have the money, you can purchase a canister decades before your death, thereby securing your place to keenly watch over your descendants: ensuring their prayer-making and giving answers as you so please).

Postcard 2: the Clan Jetties

Later on I visited the some of the remaining Clan Jetties off the historic centre. The three I saw before sunset couldn’t be more different. The first was a bustling and vibrant community focused on selling plastic wares to tourists.

The second clan seemed like a poor cousin to the first, dilapidated and rickety wooden palings leading to see through toilets and temples. The third presented itself in a well maintained, precise and pretty manner, red lanterns strung up meticulously between the houses.

 

The commonalities between the jetties lay only in the distinct low tide odour. It arrested my nostrils with the delicate scent of decaying fish mixed with days’ old excrement. 

Two more Penang postcards will follow this weekend!

Penang’s Sizzling Street Art

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The second reason I put myself into a contorted space in a minivan for about 10 hours with a pounding head and sweaty knee creases was Penang’s Street Art.
 
When I was little I would stare googly eyed through train windows at the bright colours prancing about the sides of railways. I would giggle and point with joy at the ‘pretty pictures’.
 
My perception has essentially stayed the same since. In fact, the giggles and delight have grown. I love splashes of colour in otherwise plain wall scapes. I love the creativity and sometimes challenging statements. I love that it brings art into everyday existence.
 
So I will seek it out, hunt it down and smile at it. Even in metal bending heat. Even when my feet long to be lifted from the demands of Sunni’s determination. 
 
It is my great pleasure to share with you my top ten art pieces I scoured for 2 days to find. Which is your favourite?

 

 

 

I love the use of props in Penang’s Street Art.

 

One of the most brilliant, in my opinion…

A cafe grew up around this art!
Bruce Lee.
The emergence of cat street art
happened after a city campaign to look after
stray dogs and cats.

One of the most famous street art pieces in Penang, unfortunately locals and tourist alike are ruining the artwork by getting too close and rubbing themselves up against it. Like other famous artwork, a lot of the piece is now missing.


Cats and humans living together!
 

Penang: Overwhelming the senses!

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There is much to write about Penang, Malaysia, so this will be the first in a few blog posts. Naturally, I will start with my favourite subject…

Desperate to fill every minute of my two days in Penang, I covered myself in zinc cream, grasped my umbrella and headed out into the sweltering heat. 
One of most favourite things to do in a city is wander the streets. I like to feel the city. You can get hints of a city from a bus, but they are mere flashes of torch light, sanitised and secluded, not long enough to peer in and see the underbelly, what’s really there. Of course there are limitations to wandering, but in wandering, you hear the heart, chase the pulse.
 
Initially I was confronted by circling 5 lane traffic surrounding the historical area and the never ending swarm of the motorcycles, cars and trucks. I watched some locals cross up ahead. I can do this. I can. After about 5 minutes I sensed some slower cars approaching. I stepped out, waving to the cars as I slowly moved into the traffic. Loosing my gall, I ran to the curb on the opposite side of the road… phew! And then a smile spread across my face – tick – I’m getting the hang of this confidently crossing roads in mad-Asian-traffic- cities-thing!
 
The streets of the historical city of Penang are a joy for the cultural investigator. Little shops selling hand rolled Chinese sweets, mountains of puffed fried tofu, little shops filled with red trinkets, purses and statues, temples discreetly hiding around from ornately carved doorways, and street food carts with lines of devotees.
 
Penang is well known for its Street Food. Lonely planet picked Penang as the top spot for foodies in 2014. And its the sole reason I endured a 15 hour travel day to get here.
 
Rich cultural diversity drenched in food. My favourite of favourites! The first place I head to is Little India. I didn’t get time to try the famous Malaysian Banana Leaf when I was in KL, (as its affectionately known to locals), so little flickers of joy sprung in my heart when I saw folks enjoying the spread as I tried to find a table directly under a fan.
 
I ordered a masala chai without milk and sugar.

‘No sugar?’ He looked at me as if I was from Pluto.
 
Ahhh, Malaysians, they adore their sugar! After my last trip to KL I came back buzzing. It was like sucrose had replaced my blood and my body was crying out from its lack of hits. 
 
The watery Indian dahls’ in big solid metal canisters were caverns of love for my soul- have as much as you want! Each dahl subtly infused with differing spices and heat.   Most customers eat with their hands directly off the Banana leaves, mushing the rice and spices into glutinous balls. I choose cutlery, even after washing my hands. The dirt and sweat from outside felt like was wrapped in sticky tape (not plastic, thank goodness :)).
 
The Banana leaf comes from South Indian and was adopted into Malaysian culture with the significant migration of these peoples here.   The combination of curry flavours, pickles and poppadoms was exactly what I needed for my continued pacing around the city. 
 
After another few hours of meandering in I’d say around 40 degree, 80 per cent humid heat I saw a food cart stall with a line of 20 people long. The 60 year old server was a train. He moved through the line of people with machine like speed and consistency. Slapping the shaved ice, rice noodles made green from Pandan leaf, red bean paste, sugar and coconut milk into little bowls. 20 bowls were made in 3 minutes. He took orders and money whilst slapping the ingredients together with dogged determination.
As I dived into the bowl, my mouth succumbed to its refreshing bite of cool, coconut and red bean bliss. It was just what my body craved. My cells danced a refreshing gypsy tune! The locals and I hung around in this grimy alley that mingled scents of sweet, meat and heat, jointly devouring this joy. My mind congratulated the stall on its minimal environmental impact. Reusing bowls and spoons. Pure unadulterated happiness glowed from within me.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This sweet desert is called Cendol.

I really wanted to try some Penang / Malaysian specialities. The spices, the rice. Nasi goreng. My major problem is they are usually made on a fish base / froth. So I hunted down a vegetarian restaurant that served local dishes. So happy to find a Malaysian cook in a Indian vegetarian restaurant (thank you Thali NR Sweets Cafe!). Here is my dish. Nasi goreng paprik.

It was fabulous. Rich, meaty and a good amount of heat. I was complete!
 
I finished off the day with some AMAZING Japanese food. A little restaurant, tucked in the historical centre, close to some of the famous Pier communities is a little place simply called Sushi Kitchen.
 

Sitting on a raised wooden floor I was served a glass of iced nutmeg. After basking in the cement radiation it was a very welcome crisp antidote for my throat.

 
The sushi chef had not yet arrived, so I had a bowl of Japanese noodle soup. It had the superb combination of salty flavours mixed with the sweet of the sweet potatoe and lightly battered mushrooms, complete perfection rolling around my mouth. Complete and utter perfection.
 
And then I indulged in the sushi. Pure bliss. The homemade vegan-aise was so tasty, so ‘real’ I would not have believed it was not made of eggs and dairy. Extraordinary! Did I mention that I was sent to heaven and had to come crashing down to earth with a thud on my final mouthful? Its true.
 
I was one happy Sunni. Stayed tuned for more of Penang, there is SO much more…
One happy Buddha (like me at the end of the day!)